Its labyrinth of cobbled streets, soaring architecture and views over the Cadiz countryside make this thousand-year-old town an essential stopover on a tour of inland Andalucía.

*View from the bell tower of the Basilica de Santa María*

Snaking along the crest of a hill with sheer drops down to the Guadalete river valley below, Arcos de la Frontera has the typical whitewashed buildings and narrow, cobbled streets of an Andalucían pueblo blanco (white town). In fact, it’s considered the gateway of the ruta de los pueblos blancos, a route that includes some of the most enchanting villages of Cadiz province.

Although its small size might make it seem like a day-trip destination, it’s well worth staying longer in the area - especially if you’re visiting over summer. The best times to explore then are during the cool of the morning, when the streets are quiet before the tour buses arrive, and in the evening, when sunset bathes the ancient stone of its monumental architecture in a rose-gold light and the street lamps flicker into life.

Spending two days here, I was also struck by how much it’s still a normal, working town, rather than a tourist enclave - just a few steps from the historic centre, you’ll find streets full of regular shops and businesses and people going about their daily lives.

What to see and do

The old town’s architecture and street plan reflect its past as a fortified hill town during the era of al-Andalus (Islamic Spain). After the fall of the Caliphate of Córdoba in the 11th century, Medina Arkos - as it was then known - became a taifa, or kingdom in its own right. The Islamic era came to an end in the 13th century when King Alfonso X conquered the town, and it became part of the Kingdom of Castile.

Today, the most visible remnants of its Andalusi past are its Ducal Castle (a former fortress that is now in private hands) and the remains of its medieval defensive walls, such as the Puerta de Matrera.

*The Puerta de Matrera in Arcos de la Frontera*

Plaza del Cabildo

This public square is the ceremonial heart of the old town and a good place to start exploring. It’s bordered by the Basilica of Santa Maria de la Asunción on one side, the Parador hotel on another, and the Ducal Palace facing that. The fourth side of the plaza has an archway leading to a mirador (observation deck) overlooking the Cádiz countryside.

The mirador has been closed for works for some time, and as of September 2025 it’s unclear when it will reopen, but fear not - the Parador’s cafe terrace next door has views that are arguably better for the price of a drink or something to eat. I stopped here for a mid-morning coffee on my first day of sightseeing and enjoyed watching flocks of starlings wheeling in unison around the cliff faces below.

Basilica of Santa Maria de la Asunción

Built on the site of an old mosque, the basilica is the largest of the town’s religious buildings and a mix of gothic and renaissance styles. Entry is €2, or for €4 you can climb up its bell tower as well. If you’re comfortable with steps and enclosed spaces, this is well worth doing for the 360-degree views of the town and countryside, including the nearby reservoir with its “beach”.

Brace yourself for the bells, as you’ll be in very close proximity to them. As the lady at the ticket desk warned me - “Every 15 minutes… BONG!”

Inside the basilica, there’s an impressive organ, a large-scale baroque altarpiece, and - my favourite - a fresco dating from the late 1300s that was noticeably older than the other sacred artworks on view.

Buying sweets from cloistered nuns

The back wall of the basilica is connected to the buildings opposite it by arched buttresses, creating a space known as the Callejon de las Monjas (alley of the nuns). Continue along this alley and you’ll reach the Convent of Mercedarias Descalzas, the last remaining cloistered convent in Arcos.

*Callejon de las Monjas, shown on the left*

As in many convents across Spain, the nuns here make cakes and biscuits for sale, and you can buy them via the little turnstile inside the foyer. There’s a sheet with illustrations of the various sweet treats on offer, and you place your order, receive it and pay without ever seeing the nun on the other side. Be sure to bring cash.

*I bought a bag of magdalenas (cupcakes) for €5*

Palacio de Mayorazgo

This 17th-century palace, which is free to enter, is home to the town’s culture department and hosts temporary and permanent exhibitions. There’s also a “hidden garden” in an Andalusi-style courtyard that felt noticeably cooler than the surrounding streets thanks to its canopy of vine leaves. You can enter the garden directly from the street on the lower level.

*The Jardín Andalusí with views of San Pedro’s church*

Iglesia de San Pedro

Another church worth popping into, San Pedro has an impressive baroque alterpiece and a pair of holy relics - the one pictured at the bottom left here is described as “the incorrupt body of Saint Victor (3rd century), from the Roman catacombs of Saint Calixto”.

Prettiest streets and viewpoints in Arcos de la Frontera

The warren of tiny streets in the old town is full of picturesque archways and occasional glimpses of the countryside and reservoir beyond the town. Some of the most photogenic streets are Calle Boticas, Calle Maldonado, Calle Cuna and Calle Socorro. The latter two are in what is believed to be the town’s former Jewish quarter.

As for miradors, here are my favourites:

Mirador de Abades

On the lower slopes of the old town, right at the edge of the cliffs, you’ll find an archway with the words “Bésame en este arco” (kiss me in this archway) which beautifully frames the landscape beyond.

Head through this and you’ll reach the Mirador de Abades, a series of terraces with views over the rooftops towards the reservoir on the left, the river on the right, and - straight ahead - the distant hills of the Sierra de Grazalema. There’s a bench here, and it’s a lovely spot to enjoy the last rays of daylight.

Mirador de San Agustín

As you head further away from the old town, this one appears out of nowhere - at the edge of a small carpark by the church of San Agustín. For me, this mirador had the prettiest views of the old town and reservoir.

Mirador Peña Vieja

Worth a stop after checking out the Puerta de Matrera, an archway in a remnant of the medieval town walls, this mirador has a similar outlook to San Agustín but from a lower level.

Where to eat in Arcos de la Frontera

We had a nice meal in Restaurante La Chuminá, just outside the old town. The cuisine is Spanish classics with a contemporary twist - I enjoyed the burger made from bluefin tuna caught in the almadraba (the ancestral fishing technique that’s still practiced along the Cadiz coast). The restaurant is pet-friendly, and vegan options are available.

If you’re self-catering and looking for local foods to try, I highly recommend this artisan cheese spread (pictured) made with cheese from Payoya goats, which we bought from a little deli near the Callejon de las Monjas. It was absolutely delicious in tomato sandwiches.

Getting to Arcos de la Frontera

The closest big city to Arcos is Jerez de la Frontera, just 30 minutes drive away. Jerez has its own airport and is also well connected by train. Arcos is 40 minutes drive from Cádiz, 01:15 hours from Seville, and 02:15 hours from Málaga.

We drove into Arcos each day and parked on Calle de las Nieves, one of the main roads into town. Although we didn’t use it, I noted there is an underground carpark at Plaza de España.

Where to stay

We spent two nights as invited guests of Cortijo los Agustinos in one of their six retiros (retreats) - luxurious holiday homes that can accommodate up to six people and come with fully-equipped kitchens. The cortijo is 20 minutes drive from the centre of Arcos, in the middle of rolling countryside and olive groves.

The retiros are furnished in grey slate both inside and out, with high ceilings, luxurious touches such as Molten Brown toiletries, and minimalist, modern decor. There’s a shared infinity pool with views over the town’s skyline, and taking a cooling dip here at sunset after a day of exploring was delightful.

For the 2025-25 season, prices start at €300 per night for a 2-bed unit (there are additional sofa beds and supplementary beds available for a surcharge).

If you stay here and make a reservation before 30 October 2025 (your stay can be later), you can get a 10% discount with my promo code AMY5LA. (First 50 bookings only, public holidays not included).

A slow travel guide to Arcos de la Frontera